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III. Starting at the middle front, work this set over the horizontal layer, using the same holes as in I.

IV. Start as in II, on the right edge. You must now work over and under the I and III layers, passing over the III layer and under the I, thus keeping the III layer to the right of the I.

V. This is the first diagonal row. Starting at the far right corner, pass the cane under the front-to-back canes, and over the side-to-side canes, in pairs. The first diagonal “stitch” will be from the far right corner, under the front-to-back pair, on the far side of the farthest side-to-side pair. There will be another diagonal row from this same corner, passing over the farthest side-to-side pair, then under the right-most front-to-back pair, and so on. This far right corner is the only hole to have two canes starting from it.

VI. Reverse V. That is, start from the far left corner with diagonal weave, and where V passed over a pair, VI passes under it, and vice versa.

VII. For this, which is the binding, a slightly wider cane is used — wide enough to cover the holes. Bring it up through a left corner hole, carry it to the right on top of the holes, and with a piece of fine cane, couch it through each hole — that is, bring the fine cane up through the hole, over the binding cane, and down again through the same hole, proceeding under the seat to the next hole.

When starting or finishing a strand of cane, the ends are fastened neatly and securely to an adjoining loop under the seat.

Lights

For camp use, there is nothing better than the Stonebridge folding lantern, with a good supply of candles. A temporary torch can readily be made of a roll of birch bark, a pine knot, or some pine-root slivers, in a split stick of green wood.

Hunter’s Lamp

A fairly steady light can be made of a piece of cotton, or twisted rag stuck in a clam shell full of oil or melted grease, An improvement is easily made by putting the cotton wick through a hole in a thin, flat stone, which sets in the grease and holds the wick upright.

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